A beautiful beginning of the day this morning in Ushuaia. Breakfast at the panoramic room of the hotel Alto Andino. For about five minutes I had it all to myself. Memories of mornings in Lulea and Mallaig came back to me. "End of the world" places in different latitudes.
At the End of the World train station, ticket controllers ask almost everyone where they are from. "From Greece", I said. My answer immobilised them for two seconds. Then a huge smile and they rushed to get me a leaflet in greek. I felt like a rare species. Nice, welcoming people.
I think it is since I left Greece that I hadn´t seen so beautiful, intense autumn colours. It used to be my favourite time of the year there. Yellow, red, brown, green. The trees grow up to a certain altitute. Then the mountains get bare and white with snow. The contrast is amazing. We are surrounded by them.
It is never summer here. In fact, for our standards, it´s always winter. But the sea makes it milder. The Yamanas used to live here naked. Mothers used to wash their newborns in the cold water, to get them used to it. Too much trouble with all the rain and snow to be worried about wearing soaked clothes, say the specialists. So they lit fires, also on their canoes, to keep warm. Thus giving this land its name. The missionaries thought they should get dressed. That´s how they finished them off.
I had a great lunch at the café Aldino Gourmet, the most tasteful minestrone I´ve ever had (or is it that I am too happy to be here...?).
Then an afternoon cruise in the Beagle canal. A small whale made its appearance, quite rare here; then royal cormorans and sea lions put up with us while they were trying to have a siesta on their rocky islands.
Back to Ushuaia, I took a walk in the busy San Martin Street. This is where all the shops and restaurants are. Lots, lots of people, it feels very alive. Here also one sees lots of old cars, many with dark windows...
Dinner at the Bodegón Fueguino, a cosy place. Cordero a la mostaza with mushed sweet potatoes and good latin-american music to go with it. The owner insisted that I had all my food because it´s an excellent aphrodisiac... I didn´t dare to ask any questions.
The last song before I left was of Caetano Veloso, who "cantando mandou a tristeza embora." Or is it that I am too happy to be here...?
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