Thursday 5 May 2011

Argentina, day 13 - Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires for me is a mixture of Athens, Paris and New York. Today I walked all the way from the centre, through San Telmo, to La Boca and back. Lots of colour and a sense of being somewhere I had been before.


When I visited the Teatro Colon a few days ago, they told us that the porteños had wanted to build a theatre to match the european ones. A theatre like those in Paris. Later on, in Santa Fe, someone was talking to me about Buenos Aires ans its cultural life and compared it, once again, to Paris. In the course of another conversation, when I included the Argentines among latin american people, someone, half joking, told me: “We are not Latin Americans, we are Europeans”. It´s a big mixture, that´s what it is.

I had lunch on a café terrace. It was warm and sunny and I desperately needed to rest. There was a nice movement in Plaza Dorrego, in San Telmo, both tourists and porteños.


Two demonstrations later (it seems to be a daily happening here), I got to Confetaria Ideal. It was 5pm and on the first floor there were already many couples dancing the tango. All tables here have one chair, all looking towards the dance floor. People come alone, the majority in their 60s or more. The music starts and they are exchanging glances, looking for a partner. It´s an interesting ritual and the dancing is beautiful. But there is something decadent in it as well.


Whenever you need it, a café Havanna is near you. Paradise. I think I´ve already tasted all possible versions of alfajores.

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